Hitching takes about 5 minutes if you have the right equipment. The sequence matters — do it in this order every time. After hitching, you must verify lights and brakes work before driving off; if anything isn't right, don't tow.

Position the tow vehicle

Back your tow vehicle up to the trailer coupler. Aim to stop with the hitch ball directly underneath the coupler. A spotter helps a lot — even a phone with a backup camera does the job.

Tip: get out and check alignment when you're a foot away. Small back-and-forth movements are easier than re-doing a bad position.

Drop the coupler onto the ball and latch

With the ball directly under the coupler, lower the coupler onto the ball using the trailer jack.
Close and latch the coupler lock (the lever on top of the coupler).
Tug-test: try to pull the coupler straight up off the ball. It should not lift. If it does, re-seat — the latch isn't fully engaged.

Cross the safety chains

The trailer has two safety chains attached to the tongue. Hook them to the safety-chain points on your hitch with the chains crossed — left chain to the right hook, right chain to the left hook. The crossover forms a cradle under the coupler, so if the coupler ever comes off the ball, the tongue catches in the chains rather than dropping to the road.

Leave enough slack to allow turning, but not so much that the chains drag.

Connect the breakaway lanyard

The trailer has a breakaway switch on the tongue, with a small cable and pin attached. Hook the cable to a solid point on your tow vehicle — not the safety chain, not the ball mount. The ball mount can come off in a worst-case separation; the breakaway needs to stay connected to the tow vehicle.

If the trailer ever fully separates, the breakaway pin pulls out and triggers the trailer's brakes, locking the wheels and bringing the trailer to a stop.

Connect the 7-pin plug

The trailer's 7-pin electrical plug goes into the 7-pin receptacle on your tow vehicle. It only fits one way; align the notch and push firmly until it clicks. Twist the locking ring if your receptacle has one.

Crank the jack stand up

Crank the trailer jack stand all the way up so it clears the road. A jack stand left down can hit pavement, rip off the trailer, and damage your trailer or the road.

Test running lights, brake lights, and turn signals

Have a second person stand behind the trailer while you sit in the driver's seat. With the truck running:

Running lights — turn on parking/running lights. The trailer's running lights and side markers should illuminate.
Brake lights — press the brake pedal. Both trailer brake lights should light up.
Left turn signal — flash. Only the left trailer signal should flash.
Right turn signal — flash. Only the right trailer signal should flash.

If you're alone, walk back and forth between the cab and the trailer rear; or park near a wall/window and use the reflection.

Test the brake controller

With the truck stationary (or moving slowly in a safe area), apply your brake controller's manual lever (usually a slide or button on the controller). You should feel or hear the trailer's electric brakes engage — a slight tug as the trailer brakes grab.

If the trailer doesn't brake when you activate the controller, do not drive off. Common causes: the brake controller is unplugged, the 7-pin connector isn't seated properly, or the controller settings need adjustment.

If anything isn't working

Don't drive off. Message us through chat — we'll work through it. The trailer's electric brakes are required equipment for safe and legal towing; lights are required for visibility and to avoid traffic stops.